Total Area
~40,000 km2
About 40% of Iceland -- roughly the size of the Netherlands.
Iceland Highlands: Complete Visitor Guide
Europe's last great wilderness -- a vast volcanic desert covering 40% of Iceland, accessible only 3-4 months per year
Updated March 1, 2026By the Iceland.org Travel Team
Area
~40,000 km2
40% of Iceland. Largest uninhabited area in Europe.
Key Takeaways
- ✓The Highlands (Halendid) cover roughly 40,000 km2 -- no settlements, no shops, no fuel stations in the interior.
- ✓F-roads are the only vehicle access. 4WD is legally required. Season runs roughly late June to early September.
- ✓Standard rental insurance does NOT cover river crossing or water damage. Budget for add-ons or specialist coverage.
- ✓The Kjolur route (Route 35) is the easiest introduction -- no river crossings, suitable for any 4WD.
- ✓Key destinations: Landmannalaugar, Thorsmork, Askja, Kerlingarfjoll, the Laugavegur hiking trail.
- ✓No reliable cell coverage. Satellite communicators and offline maps are strongly recommended.
- ✓Off-road driving is illegal with fines up to 400,000 ISK (~$3,300) per passenger.
The Icelandic Highlands -- Halendid -- form a vast volcanic desert plateau that most visitors to Iceland never see. Covering roughly 40% of the country's total landmass, this interior is a landscape of black sand deserts, colourful rhyolite mountains, steaming geothermal fields, glaciers, and lava flows stretching to the horizon in every direction. No one lives here permanently. There are no towns, no shops, and almost no infrastructure.
The highlands exist because Iceland straddles the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where tectonic plates diverge. Combined with the Iceland mantle plume -- a deep upwelling of hot magma -- this creates intense volcanic activity. Over millions of years, eruptions built a barren plateau of nutrient-poor volcanic ash where water infiltrates the porous ground so quickly that vegetation cannot establish.
Historically, Icelanders viewed the interior with fear and superstition, associating it with outlaws, trolls, and the supernatural. Highland trails served as summer shortcuts between north and south. Only with improved infrastructure in the 20th century did the highlands gradually open to broader access, though they remain accessible just 3-4 months per year.
Safety + sourcing
Last updated: 2026-03-01
The highlands have no reliable cell coverage and limited weather stations. Check forecasts and road conditions before entering. Register your travel plan at safetravel.is.
Sources to check
Elevation
400-2,000+ m
Plateau starts at 400-500 m. Average 600-800 m. Peaks exceed 2,000 m.
Access Season
~3 months
Late June to early September. Some roads open late May, most close by October.
Key Destinations
The highlands divide into three broad regions, each with a distinct character.
Southern Highlands
The most accessible and most visited region. Colourful rhyolite mountains, hot springs, and the starting point for Iceland's most famous hiking trails.
Landmannalaugar
The People's Pools
Colourful rhyolite mountains in reds, yellows, greens, and blues within the Fjallabak Nature Reserve. Natural hot spring at 36-40 C, free to bathe. Trailhead for the Laugavegur trek. Access via F208 or F225.
Read full guideThorsmork (Porsmork)
Valley of Thor
A lush green valley nestled between three glaciers -- Eyjafjallajokull, Myrdalsjokull, and Tindfjallajokull. Part of the Katla UNESCO Global Geopark. Highland bus or super jeep access recommended due to the dangerous Krossa river crossing.
Read full guideHekla
Gateway to Hell
A 1,491-metre stratovolcano that has erupted 20-30 times since settlement. Last erupted in 2000 and now considered overdue. Gives only 30-80 minutes of warning before eruption. Hiking not officially recommended.
Read full guideLaki Craters (Lakagigar)
130+ volcanic craters
A 25-27 km fissure within Vatnajokull National Park. The 1783-84 eruption was one of history's most devastating, killing 20-25% of Iceland's population. Today the craters are covered in thick green moss. Access via F206/F207, July-September only.
Read full guideSigoldugljufur
Valley of Tears
A 2 km canyon with 50+ small waterfalls streaming down moss-covered cliffs into turquoise water. Easy 15-20 minute walk from parking. Along F208, about 24 km from Landmannalaugar.
Read full guideMaelifell
The green cone
A near-perfect cone-shaped volcano covered in vivid green Racomitrium moss against black volcanic sand. One of Iceland's most photographed mountains. Access via F210, usually opening in early July.
Read full guideCentral Highlands
The route between Langjokull and Hofsjokull glaciers, accessed primarily via the Kjolur route. Geothermal areas and glacial lakes.
Kerlingarfjoll
Mountain of the Troll Woman
A 100 km2 mountain range between Langjokull and Hofsjokull glaciers. The Hveradalir geothermal area features steaming fumaroles, mud pools, and vivid rhyolite mountains. Highland Baths opened in 2024. Access via Route 35 then F347.
Hveravellir
Geothermal oasis on the Kjolur route
Natural bathing pool at 38-40 C with views of two glaciers. The 18th-century outlaw Fjalla-Eyvindur survived here using geothermal heat. Oldest surviving turf rest house from 1922. Mountain huts, restaurant, and campsite available.
Hvitarvatn
White River Lake
Iceland's sixth-largest lake at about 30 km2, source of the Hvita river that feeds Gullfoss waterfall. The Nordurjokull glacier tongue has retreated and no longer reaches the lake since 2018 -- a visible marker of climate change.
Langisjor
The Long Lake
A crystal-clear azure lake 20 km long, considered by many Icelanders as the country's most beautiful. The Sveinstindur viewpoint at 1,090 m offers views of a quarter of Iceland. Access via F208 and F235, mid-July through September.
Northern & Eastern Highlands
The most remote and least visited region. Vast lava deserts, dramatic calderas, and Iceland's most iconic table mountain.
Askja
Caldera in the lava desert
A 50 km2 caldera in the vast Odadahraun lava desert. Oskjuvatn lake is among Iceland's deepest at 220 m. The Viti crater holds milky pale green water. Apollo astronauts trained here in 1967 for the lunar landscape. Access via F88 (8-10 hour day trip).
Herdubreid (Heroubreio)
Queen of Icelandic Mountains
At 1,682 metres, this classic tuya (table mountain) is perhaps the finest example on Earth. Formed by eruption beneath thick ice during the last glacial period. The Herdubreidarlindir oasis at its base contrasts starkly with the surrounding lava desert.
Aldeyjarfoss
Basalt column waterfall
A 20-metre waterfall framed by a spectacular amphitheater of hexagonal columnar basalt. Near the northern end of the Sprengisandur route. About 40 km from the Ring Road, last 3-4 km on F26. Relatively uncrowded.
Holuhraun
2014-2015 lava field
Created by the Bardarbunga eruption, the largest effusive eruption in Iceland since 1783. Produced about 1.5 km3 of lava covering 85+ km2. Can be visited as part of Askja day trips via the F910 route. Lava is still warm in places.
How to Get There
F-roads (from "fjall" meaning mountain) are unpaved mountain roads providing the only vehicle access to Iceland's interior. They feature gravel, loose stones, steep hills, and frequently unbridged river crossings. Only 4WD vehicles are legally permitted on F-roads -- driving a 2WD is illegal. Off-road driving is strictly forbidden everywhere in Iceland.
Three roads are technically not F-roads but still require robust vehicles: Route 550 (Kaldidalur), Route 35 (Kjolur -- recently reclassified after improvements), and Route 570 (Jokulhalsleio).
Road Opening Dates
| Road | Typical Opening | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Route 35 (Kjolur) | Late May - Mid-June | First to open, often accessible before other F-roads |
| Route 550 (Kaldidalur) | Early May - Mid-June | Average opening May 31 |
| F208 North (Landmannalaugar) | Late May - Late June | Easier northern approach |
| F225 (Landmannaleid) | Late May - Mid-July | Can open significantly later |
| F26 (Sprengisandur) | Late June - Early July | One of the last to open |
| F88 (Askja) | Mid-June - Early July | River crossings dependent |
| F249 (Thorsmork) | Late June | Krossa river crossing dependent |
| F910 (Eastern Askja) | Mid-June - Mid-July | Sandy, volcanic terrain |
The Three Main Highland Routes
Kjolur (Route 35)
~168 km5-6 hoursEasiest
Rough gravel but no river crossings. Drives between Langjokull and Hofsjokull glaciers. Key stops: Hveravellir and Kerlingarfjoll. Any 4WD sufficient. The best introduction to highland driving.
Sprengisandur (F26)
~250 km7-10 hoursChallenging
Iceland's longest F-road connecting south and north. River crossings and rough terrain. Zero facilities along the entire 250 km -- no fuel, no cell coverage, no accommodation. Mid-size 4WD minimum.
Kaldidalur (Route 550)
~40 km1-2 hoursBeginner
Shortest route, between Thingvellir and Husafell. No river crossings. Nicknamed 'Highlands for beginners.' Views of Langjokull glacier and the extinct volcano Ok. 4WD highly recommended.
Highland Bus Services
Three operators serve the highlands in summer using specialized highland buses with professional drivers:
- Reykjavik Excursions: Routes to Thorsmork (~$76 one-way, 5 hrs), Landmannalaugar (~$80 one-way, 5 hrs), and Skogar (~$40, 3 hrs). Departs BSI Terminal. Hikers Bus Pass available.
- Trex: Routes to Landmannalaugar (14,900 ISK/~$105 one-way) and Thorsmork. Two daily departures in peak season. Hikers Bus Pass: 27,900 ISK (~$200).
- SBA-Nordurleio: Based in Akureyri. Kjolur and Sprengisandur routes plus multi-day Askja circuits (~58,500 ISK/person for 3-day transport + guide).
Vehicle Requirements
| Category | Examples | Suitable Routes | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small 4WD | Dacia Duster, Suzuki Jimny, Toyota RAV4 | F208 North, Route 35, Route 550 | $50-80/day |
| Mid-size 4WD | Nissan X-Trail, Land Rover Discovery Sport | F910, F225, F26 Sprengisandur | $100-140/day |
| Large 4WD | Toyota Land Cruiser, Jeep Wrangler, Defender | F88 to Askja, F249 to Thorsmork | $150-300+/day |
| Super Jeep | Modified vehicles, 38-44 inch tires, snorkels | Extreme routes, winter access | Specialist rental |
The Insurance Gap
Most standard rental insurance (CDW, SCDW, Gravel Protection) does NOT cover river crossing/water damage, undercarriage damage, or sand/ash damage. Water damage from a river crossing can cost over 10,000 euros. Towing from remote highlands costs up to 450,000 ISK (~$3,700).
Only a few rental companies offer river crossing coverage: Lotus Car Rental (Platinum package, ~40 euros/day) and Blue Car Rental. Northbound offers "River Ford Crossing Protection" as an add-on. Third-party services like RentalCover (~$150-170/week) can cover everything except water damage. SAAP (Sand and Ash Protection) is strongly recommended.
When to Visit
The highland season runs approximately late June to mid-September -- roughly 3 months. July and August are peak: most roads open, warmest weather (5-15 C in highlands), longest daylight. June offers midnight sun but many roads remain closed. September brings fall colours but earlier closures and snow risk.
Highland temperatures range 0-15 C even in summer, dropping to freezing at night. Weather changes from sunshine to snow in minutes. Wind reaches 18 m/s on 50+ days per year. Iceland's volcanic desert produces dust storms on roughly 135 days per year -- black volcanic sand can reduce visibility to zero.
Safety in the Highlands
Communication
No reliable cell coverage in most of the highlands. Siminn offers the best remote coverage. Download offline maps (Maps.me, Google Maps) before entering. The 112 Iceland App sends SOS signals with GPS location even with weak signal. A satellite communicator like the Garmin inReach is strongly recommended.
River Crossings
The primary hazard on F-roads. Glacial rivers are lowest in early morning before glacier melt, highest in afternoon/evening. Always stop and inspect first, walk in to assess depth, cross at the widest and shallowest point, and never cross if water exceeds knee height. Keep windows open for emergency exit.
Emergency Preparedness
Carry first aid kit, emergency blanket, tow rope, spare tire, warm clothing, extra food and water for at least one extra day. Register travel plans at safetravel.is. ICE-SAR -- Iceland's volunteer search-and-rescue organisation with roughly 5,000 trained volunteers -- operates 24/7/365. Never drive alone on remote F-roads.
Off-Road Driving is Illegal
Driving off marked roads is prohibited under Iceland's Nature Conservation Act. Fines range from 100,000 to 400,000+ ISK per passenger ($800-$3,300+), with severe cases exceeding 1,400,000 ISK (~$12,000). Jail time is possible. Highland moss grows only about 1 cm per year and tire tracks remain visible for 50-100 years.
Highland Hiking
Laugavegur Trail
55 km3-4 daysNational Geographic Top 20
From Landmannalaugar to Thorsmork, named by National Geographic as one of the world's Top 20 "Dream Trails." An estimated 75,000-100,000 hikers walk it annually.
Day 1: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker (~12 km). Steepest ascent, rhyolite mountains, obsidian fields.
Day 2: Hrafntinnusker to Alftavatn (~12 km). Glacier views, descent to "Swan Lake."
Day 3: Alftavatn to Emstrur (~15 km). River crossings, black volcanic desert.
Day 4: Emstrur to Thorsmork (~15 km). Canyon descent, entry into birch forests.
Mountain huts: ~15,800 ISK/night (~$122). Bring your own sleeping bag. Peak season sells out within hours -- book via fi.is when bookings open in October/November.
Fimmvorduhals Trail
~25 km1 day or overnightThorsmork to Skogafoss
Extends the Laugavegur for a combined ~80 km trek from Landmannalaugar to Skogafoss. Passes between Eyjafjallajokull and Myrdalsjokull glaciers at 1,000+ metres -- the most weather-exposed section of either trail.
Features the Magni and Modi craters from the 2010 Eyjafjallajokull eruption and the dramatic Kattarhryggir (Cat's Spine Ridge) descent. The descent into Skogar passes 26 cascading waterfalls.
More challenging than the Laugavegur due to elevation, exposure, and snowfield crossings. Two huts en route: Baldvinsskali (16 beds) and Fimmvorduskali.
Planning help
Highlands FAQs
Quick answers with safety notes where it matters.